Chapter 9 Part 3: Manual Vertical Milling Machines

TOOL HOLDING

Tool holding devices on a milling machine are designed to securely hold the tools for various operations. They need to be simple, quick, and easy to use. The most common tool holding solutions on milling machines are drill chucks and collets. These solutions come in many different styles, but they all perform the same function of holding the tools. It is very important to point out that drill chucks are only used to hold the hole making tools outlined in the drill press chapter. Tools that cut in a lateral motion require more support than a drill chuck can provide.

End mill holder

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An end mill holder with an integral R8 taper./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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A close up view of an endmill holder focusing on the bore to which an end mill is inserted and the set screws that would secure the end mill./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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An end mill holder with a ball end mill installed./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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A close up view of the shank of a milling tool that has setscrew flats for securing in an endmill holder./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0

An end mill holder is a solid R8 tapered holder that has a set screw for securing an end mill or other side cutting tool. In addition to the precision taper, there is also a precision diameter. Both of these mate up against or inside the precisely ground spindle. The holder also has a thread in the end to tighten the tool into the spindle.

Spring collet

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Three spring collets sit on a piece of plywood on top of a milling table./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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Two spring collets laying on a table showing the standard range of R8 collets. To the left is a ¾” collet, and to the right is a ⅛” collet./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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The side profile of a spring collet showing the R8 taper, precision upper diameter, pin slot, and one of the compression slits./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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A close up view of the thread in the end of a spring collet./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0

A spring collet, often just called a collet, also has an R8 taper, a precision diameter, and a thread in the end. However, these holders are not solid; they are flexible. The collets use this flexibility to clamp onto the tool as the drawbar pulls the collet up into the taper of the spindle. Collets are not designed to grip on diameters larger or smaller than the advertised size. Doing so could damage the tooling, the collet, or allow the cutting tool to slip during the machining process.

Draw bar

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Side view of a draw bar showing the thread, shaft, shoulder, and hex./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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A close up view of the threads at the end of a draw bar./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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An exploded view of a draw bar, collet, and tool and their relationship as installed in the milling machine./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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A close up view of the working relationship between draw bar, collet, and tool./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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An end of tool view of the working relationship between draw bar, collet, and tool./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0

A draw bar is a long rod that has a head with a hex on one end and threads on the other. The draw bar sits inside the spindle, and the larger diameter head rests against the top. The threaded end of the draw bar is used to screw into the ends of various tool holders that may be inserted into the spindle. As the draw bar is tightened, the tool holder gets pulled further into the spindle and increases the engagement of the R8 taper, locking it in position.

Drill chuck

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A keyless drill chuck. A straight shank with a flat is used for holding the chuck in a collet or an end mill holder./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0

A drill chuck for milling machines can be similar to those of the drill press but is often of better quality and may be of the keyless variety. Keyless chucks have a couple advantages over keyed chucks. The first is that they are easy to use and require only hand strength to tighten. The second is that if they start to slip, the internal mechanism will twist, tightening the chuck and stopping the slipping action. One thing to note, is that drill chucks are only for holding plunging style tools that are capable of stabilizing themselves. End mills and all other side cutting tools can not be held securely in a drill chuck.

TOOLING

Tooling is a term used to talk about the tools used on machinery to cut the parts. On milling machines, the tooling might look similar to that of a drill press; however, aside from hole making tooling, the tooling designed for a milling machine is very different. Specifically speaking, milling machine tooling is designed to cut horizontally. Because of the capability of the milling machine to facilitate sideways cutting, the machinist can create flat, straight sides and rectangular parts. The tooling for a milling machine consists of a variety of different designs that allow the machinist to create different shapes for the features that may be required of a part.

Tooling materials

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Two double ended end mills sit side by side on a table. The end mill on the left is high speed steel, and the end mill on the right is carbide./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0

Tooling for milling machines can be made of a number of different materials. High Speed Steel (HSS) is often considered the baseline material for tooling in a machine shop and is often used on manual milling machines because it makes a great economical material for end mills and other rotary tooling. Generally, machine tools for cutting metal will never be of a quality less than HSS; however, there are many materials that have properties greater than HSS that are occasionally used on manual milling machines (Beaumont, n.d.). Cobalt tooling has a higher percentage of cobalt in its alloy than regular HSS. It can be used effectively to machine harder alloy steels and stainless steel. Carbide is another very popular tool material for its additional rigidity and heat resistance. In addition to base materials, coatings on tooling are a huge part of selecting a tool. Some tools are also made with an alloy steel body and indexable insert cutting edges. This design makes these tools more economical than a solid carbide tool.

Face mill

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A hand holds an indexable insert face mill with integral R8 shank./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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A side view of a face mill with the indexable inserts and integral R8 taper./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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An end view of a face mill with the indexable inserts and integral R8 taper. A single cutting insert sits alone in front of the tool./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0

A modern day face mill has many indexable carbide inserts that are designed to cut the top of the work. This cutting action is called facing. Face mills can be as small as 1” in diameter to as big as 10”or larger. For manual equipment, 1”- 3” face mills will be the most common. It is advised to use face mills with a high positive rake because of the relatively low horsepower of many vertical manual milling machines. Neutral or negative rake facemills or facemills over 3” are only recommended for use on larger, more powerful, machines. For facing cuts over 3” in diameter, a fly cutter would be a better tool than a face mill.

End mill

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A double ended, two flute, finishing end mill, with a set screw flat on the shank./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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The end view of a two flute, center cutting, finishing end mill./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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A four flute finishing end mill with a set screw flat on the shank./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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The end view of a four flute, non center cutting, finishing end mill./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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A four flute roughing end mill with a set screw flat on the shank./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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The end view of a four flute, non center cutting, roughing end mill./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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Two indexable insert end mills with set screw flats on the shanks. A ½” diameter single flute end mill on the left, and a ¾” three flute end mill on the right./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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The end view of a three fluted, non center cutting, indexable insert end mill. A single cutting insert sits alone in front of the tool./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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A two flute ball end mill with a set screw flat on the shank./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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The end view of a two fluted ball end mill./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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A four flute coated carbide bull end mill./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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The end view of a four flute, center cutting, coated carbide bull end mill./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0

An end mill, despite its name, does a majority of the cutting on the side of the tool. At first glance, the end mill looks similar to the twist drill, but that is where the similarities end. Some end mills are referred to as “center cutting” and are capable of plunge milling with the end of the tool, but this isn’t the tool’s main function. On a milling machine, end mills do a majority of the shaping of parts. From contours and angles to slots, grooves, and bosses, end mills are a very versatile tool. End mills come in a few different styles, rougher, finishing, inserted, ball nose, bull nose, 2 flutes to 6 flutes or more. Generally speaking, for a heavier cutting operation or sticky material, an end mill with fewer flutes works better because it allows the chips to flow freely through the flutes and not build up. For a finishing operation, or in harder materials, an end mill with more flutes can be used because it will remove less material and require less chip clearance. For manual milling machines, ⅛” to ¾” end mills are common. Anything over ¾” is not recommended because it often requires more power and rigidity.

Boring head

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Side view of a boring head with a boring bar installed./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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End view of a boring head with a boring bar installed./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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A close up view of the dovetail and adjustment dial of a boring head./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0

A boring head is a tool used on a milling machine for the purpose of boring holes to size with an attached boring bar. The boring head operates by spinning the offset boring bar in a circle around the center of the spindle. The bottom half of the boring head can accommodate the boring bar in three different positions, two facing down and one facing out. From these three different positions, the boring head is capable of boring a wide range of sizes. The boring head is adjusted by a screw mechanism in the main body, and the lower half moves on a dovetail. This screw mechanism has graduations of .001”. Boring heads come in many different sizes, with, 2” being a common size for a manual milling machine.

Slitting Saw

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A side view of an R8 slitting saw arbor with a saw blade installed./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0

A slitting saw is a tool that is used to cut thin sections of material from a part using a horizontally rotating saw blade. The blade is held on an arbor and is secured by a key and a compression cap. Smaller saws may just utilize the clamping force of the cap to hold the saw in place. Slitting saw blades can be HSS, carbide, or carbide inserted to name a few. On manual equipment, generally HSS saws under 6” in diameter are used.

Form tool

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A side view of a corner rounding tool./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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The end view of a corner rounding tool./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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A side view of a Woodruff key cutter./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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The end view of a Woodruff key cutter./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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A side view of a dovetail cutter./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0
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The end view of a dovetail cutter./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0

A form tool is a specialty tool that has the exact shape needed on the part, already formed into the shape of the tool. This allows for a single pass to create critical and difficult to machine features in most instances. Some examples of standard form tools would be radius tools, woodruff key cutters, tee slot cutters, and dovetail cutters. Custom form tools can be any shape the tool maker can think of to create to make the production of a part easier. Think of door and window molding used in a home. Most moldings have a slightly different shape. Each different shape has a different router bit profile to create it. This same concept is used on custom form tools for milling machines.

Hole-making tools

Hole-making tools, such as drills, reamers, taps, countersinks, and counterbores, previously discussed in the drill press chapter, are also utilized on the milling machine.

TOOL SETUP

Setting up tooling on a milling machine requires some calculation, checks, and adjustments to make sure the cutting process will be successful. A couple of the most important things to think of when setting up tooling on a milling machine is to use the correct tool for the cut and to keep the tool setup as rigid as possible.

When selecting tools, a good rule to follow is to use the largest diameter and shortest tool that will be able to complete the job. Keep in mind that end mills are the most common cutting tool and generally come in sizes from ⅛” to ¾” for manual milling. If the print requires a deep cut with a lot of metal removal, a larger diameter tool will be more rigid and remove the material faster than a smaller diameter tool. If the print requires a narrow, shallow cut, a shorter tool would be better suited for the cut than a long tool because it will be more rigid and cut more accurately with fewer issues.

When loading the tool, the operator must think of how to optimize the rigidity of the tool they have selected. The operator should choose a type of holder that is capable of holding the cutting forces of the tool. End mills should never be put into a drill chuck. When installing the tool into the tool holding device, the operator should engage as much of the solid shank of the tool as possible, generally within ⅛” of the flutes. Likewise, the tool should never be gripped over the flutes of the cutting edges.

Loading tools into and removing tools from the milling machine

Just like with all machining setups, cleanliness is going to be key when loading tools into the milling machine. Clean tools and holders reduce the chance of damage and help maintain the accuracy of the spindle and tooling. Modern manual milling machines utilize an R8 taper and a draw bar for securing tooling. Some tools, such as endmills, are held in R8 tool holders or R8 collets. Other tools, such as face mills, may be held by an integral R8 shank that is part of the tool itself. Generally speaking, twist drills are held in drill chucks unless there is a specific need to hold the tool tighter, and there is a collet in the same size as the drill shank. Holding a reduced shank drill in a ½” collet is a good example of this instance.

For safety, a box end wrench or vise handle is not recommended when tightening the draw bar. An open-ended wrench is safer because it cannot be accidentally left on the draw bar and, inadvertently, have the machine turned on. Not heeding this warning could result in the operator being injured, the machine becoming damaged, or the tooling being broken.

The following process is for loading and unloading tools from a milling spindle with an R8 spring collet as the holding device. The process is similar for loading integral shank R8 tools or end mill holders. The main difference is that end mill holders should have tools installed and removed from the machine before being installed into the spindle. On specific machinery in the shop, tightening or loosening tools in tool holders while in the spindle could be a hazard to the operator. This is a habit that should not be started.

Step by step process for loading a tool in a collet:

  1. Gather the tool, the appropriate sized collet for the shank of the cutting tool, and the ¾” open ended drawbar wrench.
  2. Put the milling machine in gear if it isn’t already. If the machine is in neutral, the brake mechanism will not function.
  3. With a clean finger, reach inside the spindle and wipe the R8 taper clean.
  4. With a clean hand, wipe any chips, dust, or debris from the R8 taper, the keyway, and the precision diameter at the top near the threads.
  5. Insert the collet into the spindle, gently rotating it to align the keyway with the pin inside the spindle.
  6. Push the collet all the way up into the spindle to where the tapers meet.
  7. Hold the collet with the left hand, reach up to the top of the machine with the right hand, and engage the draw bar with a few rotations. The collet is now being held in the spindle by the end of the draw bar.
  8. Insert the tool into the collet.
  9. Again, push the collet and tool up to where the tapers meet. This makes tightening the draw bar easier.
  10. Tighten the draw bar by hand while supporting the tool.
  11. Still supporting the tool, use the ¾” open ended wrench to tighten the draw bar until the spindle starts spinning.
  12. Grab and apply the spindle brake while continuing to tighten the draw bar until the appropriate torque is reached.

 

“Step 2: Put the milling machine in gear if it isn’t already. If the machine is in neutral, the brake mechanism will not function.“

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A hand shifts a milling machine into “HI” speed range./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0

“Step 7: Hold the collet with the left hand, reach up to the top of the machine with the right hand, and engage the draw bar with a few rotations. The collet is now being held in the spindle by the end of the draw bar.“

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A hand reaches up to the top of the milling head to turn the draw bar./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0

“Step 11: Still supporting the tool, use the ¾” open ended wrench to tighten the draw bar until the spindle starts spinning.“

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A hand holds a ¾” open ended wrench to be used for tightening and loosening the draw bar of the milling machine./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0

“Step 12: Grab and apply the spindle brake while continuing to tighten the draw bar until the appropriate torque is reached.“

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A hand engages the brake lever on the side of the milling head./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0

“Step 12: Grab and apply the spindle brake while continuing to tighten the draw bar until the appropriate torque is reached.“

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A hand uses an open ended wrench to tighten the draw bar on a milling machine./ Photo Credit: Micky R. Jennings, CC-BY 4.0

Step by step process for unloading a tool from a collet:

  1. Grab and apply the spindle brake while loosening the draw to hand tight with an open ended ¾” wrench. Be careful not to loosen the draw bar too much while holding the brake, as the tool may fall out of the collet, and become damaged.
  2. Place the left hand under the tool to support it and the collet.
  3. Continue to loosen the draw bar with the wrench until it can be easily turned by hand.
  4. Once the draw bar is loose, unscrew it one full turn. Do not unscrew the draw bar all the way, or the last thread will become damaged in the next step.
  5. While still supporting the tool, forcefully tap on the top of the draw bar with the side of the metal wrench to break the R8 taper loose. The tool will now slide out of the collet and should be removed and set aside.
  6. Still supporting the collet with the left hand, fully unscrew the draw bar with the right until the collet can be removed from the spindle.
  7. Return the collet to the storage rack.

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