6.1 Common Hand Tools

David Ridge

A toolbox filled with hand tools may very well be the next most important thing in a fabricator‘s arsenal, after your welder. Knowing how to use hand tools to fit and fabricate metal structures requires time and practice but is an essential skill for anyone who wants to succeed in this industry.

Fabrication vs Welding

Fabrication is the process of making something, especially a metal product, from stock or pre-cut material. On any given job, a fabricator can be involved in measuring, cutting, and shaping material, fitting and assembling parts, welding, and finishing operations such as grinding/sanding or machining. This list is not extensive and there may be other operations that are needed during production that a fabricator might be involved in. Not all welders are fabricators. For example, a welder whose only responsibility is to weld out assembled parts would not be considered a fabricator.

The tools discussed in this section represent a large portion of what you might find in a welder’s personal toolbox. Not every tool out on the market is discussed, but there is enough depth of information included to give you a good idea of what you might need to start fabricating. There are also some specialty items discussed that a welder may or may not need, or that they may not own personally but would be found in a weld shop.

Layout Tools

A desk strewn with rulers, pens, compasses, and other layout tools, along with patterns that are being worked out.
Figure 6.1. Layout Tools / Photo Credit: Jorge Royan, CC BY-SA 3.0

When you hear the term “layout” used in a welding shop, the context is usually about taking measurements and/or marking locations. Layout can be a complex process. A fabricator must have knowledge and a decent amount of skill with reading blueprints, applying shop math, and using measuring tools, as well as a good general grasp of how a metal weldment goes together.

Most layout tools will fall under the categories of measuring and marking tools, but there are some other tools to consider.

Measuring Tools

Measuring tools are a fairly broad category of tools, but for anyone who builds things by hand, they are indispensable. There are tools for determining any dimension. Measuring tools are used to find length, width, depth, height, and thickness. They are used to determine if something is “square” (90o with itself), angled, or curved. They can tell you if an object is level (perfectly horizontal) and plumb (perfectly vertical). Depending on the work you are doing, any or all of these dimensions may need to be taken into account.

Some measuring tools are very precise, such as a micrometer, while others give a less accurate measuring scale, like a metal ruler. You want to use the correct measuring tool for the work you are performing. Sometimes a less precise tool will work just fine if the tolerances you are working with are somewhat loose.

The following are some measuring tools you may encounter on the job.

Tools for Linear Measurement

Linear measurement is measurement in a straight line. Length, width, and material thickness (which can be considered depth or height) are linear measurements that welders and fabricators often need to find. The most common tools for taking linear measurements are tape measures and rulers.

If you do any amount of fabricating as part of your job, you need a tape measure. Tape measures come in a number of different sizes, lengths, and scales. They can be cheap or expensive, plastic or metal, basic with no frills, or have special features. The kind of tape measure you will need depends on what you are measuring.

A common tape measure.
Figure 6.2. Tape Measure / Photo Credit: David Ridge, CC BY 4.0

The scale on a standard tape measure is accurate enough for most of the measuring a fabricator does on a daily basis. Most tapes only have one scale, either imperial scale (inches and feet) or metric scale (millimeters and centimeters). But there are some that have both, one on one edge of the blade and one on the other. Be sure you understand the scale you are working with.

Reading a tape measure scale can take some practice. The majority of tapes used in fabrication and construction break the scale into 1/16 inch or 1-millimeter increments. Other incremental marks are also denoted. These include quarter inch, half inch, inch, and foot marks for Imperial, and centimeter and meter for metric. The scale can be different from one tape to another. Some may have finer increments than those mentioned while others, usually very long tapes, might only show the quarter-inch or centimeter marks.

An illustration of the fractional increments of the Imperial scale between the 1-inch and 2-inch marks.
Figure 6.3. Title: Imperial scale / Photo Credit: Offnfopt, CC0
A metric scale showing centimeters and millimeters.
Figure 6.4. Metric Scale / Photo Credit: David Ridge, CC BY 4.0
Increment Notation

When you see measurements written on blueprints or on parts, you may see them followed by “ or ‘ marks, or by m, cm, or mm. The “ mark means inches and the ‘ means feet, when working with the Imperial scale. For example 7’ 8” means seven feet, eight inches. In the case of fractional numbers, a number written ⅝” means five-eighths of an inch. When using the metric scale, an m following a dimension indicates meters, cm indicates centimeters, and mm is millimeters. For example, 5 m is five meters, 7 cm is seven centimeters, and 3 mm is three millimeters.

Tape measures come in a number of lengths. Anywhere from 2 to 100 feet, or more. The most common lengths for fabrication and construction work will usually be between 25 and 40 feet. Metric tapes can be found in similar lengths on the metric scale, 1 to 50 meters, or more. Also, the width of the blade can vary by design. The wider the blade, the stiffer it will be, allowing you to reach further without assistance and also ensure the tape is straight to take an accurate measurement.

As you probably know, a ruler works much like a tape measure except it is shorter. The benefit of a ruler over a tape is that you can use a ruler as a straight edge to mark straight lines or to check if something is true (i.e. perfectly straight). Rulers can come in a variety of lengths, widths, and measurement scales. While most of us are familiar with the plastic rulers used in grade school, there are many different types of rulers. Rulers used for fabrication can be very long, sometimes 8’ to 10’ (2.5 m to 3 m). There are also rulers that fold or extend. Often, you will find a ruler as a part of another tool, such as one of the various types of squares, or a protractor. Rulers that are 2’ (60 cm) or less tend to have finer measurement scales than tape measures, often down to 32nds or even 64ths of an inch, though they don’t usually get smaller than millimeters for the metric scale. Sometimes, a ruler will have different scales on each side or even each edge.

An engineer’s ruler.
Figure 6.5. A Ruler / Photo Credit: Mariko GODA, CC BY-SA 3.0
A folding ruler.
Figure 6.6. A Folding Ruler / Photo Credit: AlexBarcley, Pixabay License

Some other measuring tools that deserve an honorable mention are calipers, micrometers, and feeler gauges. These tools are sometimes referred to as precision measuring tools. They are used to take very fine measurements. When using these tools, you are no longer working in fractions but tenths, hundredths, and thousandths of an inch or hundredths of a millimeter in metric. Not all welders work with such small measurements, which is why you may not see or use these tools often.

An illustration of a set of Vernier calipers showing the bar with metric and Imperial scales, the outside and inside jaws used to measure the outside or inside diameter of an object, and the depth probe used to find the depth of a hole or step.
Figure 6.7. Vernier Calipers / Photo Credit: Joaquim Alves Gaspar, modified by ed g2s, CC BY-SA 3.0
A photograph of a set of digital calipers showing the bar with Imperial and metric scales, the outside and inside jaws, and the digital indicator attached to the sliding lower jaws. The calipers are open, and the digital display reads 33.7 milimeters.
Figure 6.8. Digital Calipers / Photo Credit: Marco Verch Professional Photographer, CC BY 2.0

Calipers can be used to take measurements in a number of different ways. Their most common use is to find the inside and outside dimensions of something round, such as the inside diameter of a pipe or the outside diameter of a bolt. They do this through the use of two sets of jaws, one for inside and one for outside dimensions. Calipers can also be used to find the depth of something like a hole or a notch through the use of a depth probe. Calipers are pretty much confined to taking small dimensional measurements, as the scale on most calipers is not more than 6” to 8” (15 cm to 20 cm) long.

There are three types of calipers: vernier, dial, and digital. The main difference between these is in how the scale is read. The scale on an vernier caliper looks like a ruler with fine increments. The scale is read by sliding the lower jaws up or down the bar and aligning small hash marks on the shuttle portion with the marks on the ruler. Vernier calipers get their name from the special set of incremental hash marks on the shuttle, which are called a vernier scale. As the name suggests, dial calipers use a dial indicator rather than the vernier scale to show a measurement. As the jaws slide up or down the bar, the needle in the dial indicator winds around to indicate the dimension. Digital calipers have simply replaced the vernier scale and the dial indicator with a digital display, making it easier to read. Each of these three types of calipers can be used to take accurate measurements in thousandths of an inch.

A picture of a micrometer, a measurement tool that looks like a small c-clamp with a rotating dial where the screw handle is. The micrometer is slightly open, leaving a space between the moving bar and the small cylinder (anvil) at the end of the tool. The dial shows a metric scale and the label on the side of the tool indicates that it will measure objects from 0 to 25 millimeters.
Figure 6.9. A Micrometer / Photo Credit: Lucasbosch, CC BY-SA 3.0

A micrometer is another tool used to take small measurements in thousandths of an inch or hundredths of a millimeter. Micrometers look like a small C-clamp with a twistable dial on the end. Micrometers are often used to determine a piece of material’s thickness precisely. The lower bar (called the spindle) moves in or out as the dial is twisted. The scale on the dial gives the dimension between the spindle and the anvil (the small cylinder at the top) in thousandths of an inch or hundredths of a millimeter. The scale is usually a vernier scale. Most micrometers come in increments of an inch or 25 millimeters. This means that a 1” micrometer can measure objects from 0.001” to 1”, and a 2” micrometer can take measurements from 1.001” to 2”, and so on. A 0-25 mm micrometer can take measurements from 0.01 mm to 25mm, a 25-50 mm micrometer can take measurements from 25.01 mm to 50 mm, and so on.

Photograph of a set of feeler gauges fanned out. Each feeler gauge is a thin strip of metal with a measurement printed on it. The gauges are held together with a nut at the base so that each gauge can be inserted in a gap but stay attached to the entire set.
Figure 6.10. A Set of Feeler Gauges / Photo Credit: Raimond Spekking, CC BY-SA 4.0

Feeler gauges are actually used to find the dimension of an empty space. A feeler gauge is made up of many thin metal strips. The strips range in thickness from about 0.035” (about 1/32”) at the thickest down to about 0.002” to 0.001” at the thinnest, or about 0.889 mm to 0.051 mm. By sliding the strips into the gap between the two parts, you can find the dimension of the space. In order to find the dimension of a gap larger than the thickness of any one of the strips, you can stack strips together and add their total thickness to get an accurate measurement.

Tools for Finding Square

When you hear the term square applied to something, it means that it has at least two edges that are exactly 90o to each other.

An illustration of two lines intersecting at a 90o angle. One line is completely vertical, while the second line of the angle opens 90 degrees to the right and is completely horizontal. A small square appears at the junction of the angle, representing that the angle is exactly 90o
Figure 6.11. A Square Corner / Photo Credit: Gustavb, PD

The squareness of a part or of a whole weldment is often one of the most important dimensions to account for when building almost anything. Sometimes, you will need to find stocksquare in order to mark a location or cut the end of a part. There are many different tools we can use to find square. The reason for such a wide variety is the many different stock material shapes used to build things. Metal stock, in particular, comes in a wide range of shapes and sizes, often requiring tools to accommodate these variances.

The most common tools for squaring or finding square are tools that are actually called squares. These include:

  • Combination (combo) square
  • Rafter square (often called a speed square)
  • Framing square
  • Drywall square (sometimes called a T-square)
  • Machinist square
  • Try-square
  • Beam square
An illustration of a combination square with a ruler and three attachments known as heads. On the left is a centering head with two arms at a 90 degree angle. One edge of the ruler is set directly between them at 45 degrees to either arm. In the middle is a protractor head with a flat edge and a 180-degree protractor. On the right is a square head with three adjacent flat sides, two at a 90-degree angle and one at a 45-degree angle.
Figure 6.12. Combination Square / Photo Credit: Wellman Pattern Supply Co., PD
A picture of a rafter square, also called a speed square. This square is shaped like a right triangle with a straight reference surface on the base side, a seven inch scale on the height side, and a 0 to 90 degree scale on the hypotenuse side
Figure 6.13. Rafter (Speed) Square / Photo Credit: David Ridge, CC BY 4.0
A picture of a framing square which looks like two flat metal rulers connected at a right angle.
Figure 6.14. Framing Square / Photo Credit: David Ridge, CC BY 4.0
A set of machinist squares are pictured. The squares are made of a thicker metal bar welded at a 90o angle to a thinner piece of metal called a blade. In this image, there is one larger and one smaller machinist square.
Figure 6.15. Machinist Square / Photo Credit: Glenn McKechnie, CC BY-SA 2.0

Each of these tools are all slightly different and are used in different situations, and also by different tradesmen other than welders. Their size, shape, and additional features are all based on the different materials that need to be measured. However, they all have the same basic function of finding 90° by means of opposing perpendicular legs. For this reason, they are somewhat interchangeable in many situations.

Some other tools that are used for finding square are specialized for round objects, such as pipe or round stock. Welders and fabricators often work on these types of round materials, so it is necessary to have tools adapted to these shapes.

Pipe wraps are one such tool.

A picture of a rolled up pipe wrap, which is a long strip of pliable cardboard with the Imperial measurement scale printed on the top edge and a 180 degree scale presented on the flat face of the tool.
Figure 6.16. Pipe Wrap / Photo Credit: David Ridge, CC BY 4.0

Pipe wraps are made of either a special cardboard, leather, or heavy fabric. They come as a long strip that is 3” or 4” (7.5 or 10 cm) wide and normally 2’ to 6’ (0.6 to 1.8 m) long and are usually rolled up for packaging. A pipe wrap works much like a square would on a flat piece of material. By wrapping the pipe wrap around the pipe or tube, you can find 90o easily.

A pipe centering head is pictured. It is a red and black tool with two arms forming a wide angle so that the tool may be placed against a tube or pipe. A black metal spike called a center punch runs through the center of the tool, and a bubble level is affixed to the face of the tool above the two arms. The level has a 180 degree scale.
Figure 6.17. Pipe Centering Head / Photo Credit: David Ridge, CC BY 4.0

Another tool common to working with pipes is a centering head. This tool uses a level and a center punch to find the center of a pipe. Then, this tool, in conjunction with other squaring tools, can be used to find 90° or any other angle on the pipe.

Tools for Finding Level, Plumb, and Angles

The term level refers to an object being perfectly horizontal. The term plumb refers to an object being perfectly vertical. Level and plumb are not exactly dimensions but rather reference points. However, angular dimensions are often measured off of level or plumb. There are an assortment of tools for finding level, plumb, and angles.

A blue torpedo level with four cutaways that hold plastic tubes containing bright yellow liquid with a single air bubble in each. Marks on the tubes indicate where the bubbles should rest when the level is in the desired position to indicate four different angles with reference to the edge of the tool: from left to right they are 30 degrees, 45 degrees, 90 degrees (vertical), and 0 degrees (horizontal).
Figure 6.18. Torpedo Level / Photo Credit: David Ridge, CC BY 4.0
Two typical examples of a two-foot and four-foot level are pictured. The two-foot level is on the left and is red; the four-foot level is on the right and is yellow. The biggest difference in these levels when compared is length.
Figure 6.19. Two-Foot and Four-Foot Level / Photo Credit: David Ridge, CC BY 4.0

The most common tool for finding level is called a level. A level can also be used to find plumb. Levels use gravity to determine if something is horizontal or vertical. A level contains a small clear tube of water with a single air bubble. When placed on a perfectly horizontal or vertical surface, the air bubble sits directly in the center of the tube. There are many different sizes of levels.

A conical weight suspended by a string next to a crooked sandstone wall.
Figure 6.20. Plumb Bob / Photo Credit: P.W. Hatcher, CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

A plumb bob is a metal weight with a point on one end and a string attached to the other. It is used to find plumb by hanging it next to a vertical surface and measuring the distance between the string and that surface.

An angle finder, which is a circular dial with a flat base on one side. A pointer in the dial moves to indicate the angle of a surface with reference to the base. The dial has a 360 degree scale.
Figure 6.21. Angle Finder / Photo Credit: David Ridge, CC BY 4.0

An angle finder is a handy tool for finding the resting angle of objects that are not level or plumb. Although it could be used to find those too.

A set of two hole pins, which are two large screw threaded bars with large cylindrical heads that can be screwed onto either end. One end of each cylinder is flat and the other end is conical in order to nest into the bolt hole of a pipe flange. A level is embedded in on head of each tool.
Figure 6.22. A Set of Two Hole Pins / Photo Credit: David Ridge, CC BY 4.0

Two hole pins are special tools for leveling pipe flanges. They are inserted in the holes of the pipe flange and then used in combination with a level to make sure the flange is positioned correctly.

Some tools that are used for finding angles on parts that don’t reference level or plumb are protractors and T-bevels (also called a bevel gauge). As compared to the tools mentioned above which ensure objects are positioned correctly, protractors and T-bevels are used for laying out or checking different angles on parts.

A steel protractor, which is made of a flat steel rectangle with a 180 degree scale etched onto the face in the shape of a half circle. A long flat steel arm is screwed into the rectangular piece, with the pivot point at the center of the scale so that a pointer on the short end of the arm can swing back and forth across the face of the scale in order to show the angle measurement.
Figure 6.23. Protractor / Photo Credit: David Ridge, CC BY 4.0
A T bevel, also called a bevel gauge. This T bevel has a wooden handle with a metal blade attached by a bolt and wing nut at one end of the handle. The blade has a long slot cut into it to allow it to slide in or out, or pivot on the bolt. The blade is radiused on one end but is cut at 45 degrees on the other end. The tool is being held against a piece of wood showing how an angle can be marked using the metal blade as a guide.
Figure 6.24. T-Bevel/Bevel Gauge / Photo Credit: Luke Milburn, CC BY 2.0

Before moving on, it is worth mentioning that almost all of the tools listed above have a modern digital version. They are more expensive but allow for greater precision in that it is easier to read the tool.

Marking Tools

Once you have made a measurement, you will need to mark the location. Fabricators use many different kinds of marking tools to lay out parts and locations. The kind of marking tool you should use depends on the situation. The most basic question to ask yourself is how precise you need to be. Generally, the finer a mark the tool makes, the more accurate your layout will be.

Marking tools can broadly be divided into two categories: non-marring and marring. Non-marring means that the mark made by the tool isn’t permanent and will not blemish the surface of the material you are marking on. Implements like silver pencils, grease pens, sharpie markers, soapstone, and paint pens are non-marring.

A pencil marked Silver-Streak Welder’s Pencil that uses a silver colored wax instead of pencil lead.
Figure 6.25. Silver Pencil / Photo Credit: David Ridge, CC BY 4.0
A piece of soapstone that is white in color and about ¼” thick, ½” wide, and 4” long. The soapstone is held in a metal sliding-style holder and can be used like a pencil.
Figure 6.26. Soapstone / Photo Credit: David Ridge, CC BY 4.0
A paint pen marked heavy duty marking pen, medium paint, commercial grade. The white cap indicates that the paint color is white.
Figure 6.27. Paint Pen / Photo Credit: David Ridge, CC BY 4.0

Remember that the accuracy of your layout can be affected by your marking tool. Items like silver pencils and Sharpies can make fine enough marks for most things. Paint pens tend to have wide marks that are easily smudged, so are not recommended for precise layout. Soapstone can be sharpened to make very fine marks for great accuracy.

One other thing to keep in mind with non-marring marking tools is the material you are working with and/or the work you intend to do on the material. For example, soapstone can make the finest marks but is almost invisible on materials like aluminum. Sharpie markers can also make fine marks and have good visibility on most materials, but you wouldn’t want to use them on certain types of stainless steel because the ink can contaminate it. Silver pencil is very visible on steel, but if you were to mark some cut lines and then use a high-heat cutting process like oxy-fuel cutting, the marks would melt away as you are trying to follow them. It is important to think ahead and choose an effective marking tool for the situation.

Marring marking tools make a permanent mark on the material surface. This is usually in the form of a scratch or indentation. The most common tools of this variety are scribes and punches. A metal scribe has a sharp hardened point that is used to scratch a line on metal surfaces. The line created by this tool is very fine.

A metal scribe, which is pen-shaped but has a hardened metal point meant to scratch a mark into the work surface.
Figure 6.28. Metal Scribe / Photo Credit: David Ridge, CC BY 4.0
A spring-loaded center punch
Figure 6.29. A Spring Loaded Center Punch / Photo Credit: Txikillana, CC BY-SA 4.0

A center punch is used to make a single, small indentation in a metal surface. This can be used to mark a single point, such as the location of a hole to be drilled. Or you can make a string of indentations to mark out a line, for example, to make a soapstone line more permanent. A center punch can be a single piece of metal with a point, the flat end of which must be struck with a hammer. However, there are spring-loaded punches that allow you to make marks more quickly and without the need for a hammer.

Remember that it is not always allowable to put permanent marks on a workpiece. Often, finish criteria require the surface of the material to be as undamaged as possible. Be sure you know if making permanent marks on a piece is acceptable before doing your layout with these tools.

Fitting Tools

The term fitting is applied to the process of putting the pieces of a weldment together. Often, the pieces of a weldment are premade by a supplier. If not, they are made by the fabricator themselves. The first step in fabricating any weldment is to make the individual pieces, and the second is to put them together. Fitting is not as simple as just assembling all the pieces. Often, the pieces do not fit together perfectly as they are but require adjustment or alteration. This is often on purpose, as it is usually better to have a little extra material that must be trimmed away, than not enough material. Fitting involves laying out the locations of all the pieces and making them all fit together perfectly in relation to each other, according to some blueprint or plan.

Fitting tools are another broad category of tools that a welder might encounter or need on the job. It is not an easy category to be specific about, as many welders/fitters actually make a number of their own tools to suit their needs at the moment. This is due to the unpredictable nature of the design of weldments that they might be tasked to build. This section explores some of the tools you may use when you are fitting.

Fixturing and Holding Tools.

A fixture is a tool that holds parts in place so they can be tack welded together. You will most likely also hear these called a “jig.” Fixtures can be any size or shape, simple or complex, homemade or prefabricated. It all depends on what you are building. The idea behind a fixture is to make putting parts together easier, especially if you are making multiples of the same weldment. Something as simple as a piece of angle iron can be a fixture for putting the edges of two plates together at 90o. However, premade whole fixture tables with adjustable clamps and dogs can be bought.

Along with the fixture itself, you will need a variety of fixturing tools. Again, there are those that can be purchased, but many welders make their own. These include clamps, magnets, dogs, wedges, shims, and spacers.

A 6 inch C-clamp. The main part of the tool is shaped like the letter C, with the top end of the C flattened so it can hold the material being clamped. The bottom end of the C has a threaded hole in which a large threaded screw is inserted. At the top end of the screw is a small flat foot that compresses the parts being clamped against the flat part on the C. At the base of the threaded screw is a small metal bar which is perpendicular to the screw. This is used for leverage so that the screw can be tightened until the clamp tightly compresses the material being held.
Figure 6.30. C-Clamp / Photo Credit: David Ridge, CC BY 4.0
A #11 locking clamp, which looks lik a set of pliers with large metal C-shaped jaws. The plier handles have a built in spring loaded locking mechanism to tighten the clamp and lock it in place.
Figure 6.31. #11 Locking Clamp / Photo Credit: David Ridge, CC BY 4.0
A common bar clamp. This clamp is a metal rod with two red metal jaws affixed to it. Each jaw has flat faces pointed toward each other. The lower jaw can slide up and down along the bar, while the upper jaw is mounted to the top of the bar and has a threaded screw to tighten or loosen the clamp.
Figure 6.32. Bar Clamp / Photo Credit: David Ridge, CC BY 4.0

There is a saying among welders and fitters that you can never have too many clamps. Clamps come in a wide variety of types and sizes. You want to use a clamp that conforms to the shape and size of the part being held with it. Some common clamps used in welding chops are C-clamps, #11 locking clamps, and bar clamps. Note that all of these clamps are metal. Plastic clamps should not be used for welding-related applications.

Some clamps are designed to work with fixture tables or be tack welded to a metal surface.

Various types of magnets for use in welding. One is shaped like an isosceles triangle, one is shaped like a right angle, one has two bars connected with a screw so that it can be opened and closed to the appropriate angle. The final magnet is a ruler with two red rectangular magnets about one quarter of the way from either end of the ruler.
Figure 6.33. Welding Magnets / Photo Credit: David Ridge, CC BY 4.0

Another handy tool for holding metal parts in place is a magnet. Many magnets are made specifically for use in metal fabrication. However, any strong magnet can be useful for fitting.

A dog and wedge are described in the text following the image.
Figure 6.34. Dog and Wedge / Photo Credit: David Ridge, CC BY 4.0
A dog and wedge being used to hold down a piece of metal.
Figure 6.35. Using a Dog and Wedge / Photo Credit: David Ridge, CC BY 4.0

A dog is a piece of metal stock with at least one flat edge. They can come in many shapes and sizes. A dog is used as a kind of backstop for parts being assembled. Dogs can be easily made out of scrap material but can also be purchased. Some fixture tables have specially made dogs that come with them. Dogs are held in place by tack welding them to a metal surface or by the slots or holes in a fixture table. By placing dogs in strategic positions, you can even create a fixture on any flat metal surface for assembling parts.

Dogs can also be used to hold wedges. As the name suggests, a wedge is essentially a piece of metal shaped like a very acute triangle. A wedge is used to force a part into position. By driving a wedge between a dog and the part with a hammer, you can exert a large amount of force on the part. Like dogs, wedges can easily be made from scrap material but can also be purchased.

General Hand Tools

As a fabricator, you will need an assortment of general hand tools. It is hard to know exactly what you will need as it will depend on the area of the welding industry you are working in. Starting to build your tool kit can be a daunting task, as many tools are costly. A good rule of thumb is that if you need to borrow a tool more than once (assuming you are able to borrow tools) you should have one of your own.

It is good to have a small assortment of hammers. Ball peen hammers, light sledgehammers, and dead blow hammers are all common for striking parts to adjust their position. A dead blow hammer is used when working with soft material or when it is not allowable to leave marks on the surface of a piece.

A set of files can be useful for deburring parts or lightly adjusting the shape of a part. You may find the need for a set of wrenches and/or sockets and a set of hex keys for working with hardware. Various types of pliers are always useful for welders. Specifically, 8-way pliers (which are often called welders pliers, MIG pliers, or welpers after a brand name) are needed on a daily basis for most welders. A cold chisel and a scraper are good for cleaning weld spatter or breaking small tack welds.

Again, the type of welding you do will determine the tools you will need. For example, a TIG welder might need a tungsten grinder whereas someone who welds with FCAW may not. Start building your tool kit as soon as you can. Ask other welders around you for advice. Most welders love talking about tools.

Attributions

  1. Figure 6.1: German Museum of Technology Berlin – 07TM-3438 by Jorge Royan is released under CC BY-SA 3.0
  2. Figure 6.2: Tape Measure by David Ridge, for WA Open ProfTech, © SBCTC, CC BY 4.0
  3. Figure 6.3: Measuring – Fractions of an inch by Offnfopt is released under CC0
  4. Figure 6.4: Tape Measure by David Ridge, for WA Open ProfTech, © SBCTC, CC BY 4.0
  5. Figure 6.5: Architectural scale by Mariko GODA is released under CC BY-SA 3.0
  6. Figure 6.6: image released under the Pixabay License
  7. Figure 6.7: Vernier caliper by Joaquim Alves Gaspar, modified by ed g2s is released under CC BY-SA 3.0
  8. Figure 6.8: Digital electronic vernier caliper, close up by Marco Verch Professional Photographer is released under CC BY 2.0
  9. Figure 6.9: Mahr Micromar 40A 0–25 mm Micrometer by Lucasbosch is released under CC BY-SA 3.0
  10. Figure 6.10: Parallel feeler gauge (imperial and metric)-92397 by Raimond Spekking is released under CC BY-SA 4.0
  11. Figure 6.11: Right angle by Gustavb in the Public Domain; This image of simple geometry is ineligible for copyright and therefore in the public domain because it consists entirely of information that is common property and contains no original authorship.
  12. Figure 6.12: Illustration of a combination square by Wellman Pattern Supply Co. in the Public Domain; This work is in the public domain in the United States because it was published (or registered with the U.S. Copyright Office) before January 1, 1928.
  13. Figure 6.13: Rafter (Speed) Square by David Ridge, for WA Open ProfTech, © SBCTC, CC BY 4.0
  14. Figure 6.14: Framing Square by David Ridge, for WA Open ProfTech, © SBCTC, CC BY 4.0
  15. Figure 6.15: SquareEngineersMachinist by Glenn McKechnie is released under CC BY-SA 2.0
  16. Figure 6.16: Pipe Wrap by David Ridge, for WA Open ProfTech, © SBCTC, CC BY 4.0
  17. Figure 6.17: Pipe Centering Head by David Ridge, for WA Open ProfTech, © SBCTC, CC BY 4.0
  18. Figure 6.18: Torpedo Level by David Ridge, for WA Open ProfTech, © SBCTC, CC BY 4.0
  19. Figure 6.19: Two-Foot and Four-Foot Level by David Ridge, for WA Open ProfTech, © SBCTC, CC BY 4.0
  20. Figure 6.20: plumb line on sandstone wall by P.W. Hatcher is released under CC BY-NC-ND 2.0
  21. Figure 6.21: Angle Finder by David Ridge, for WA Open ProfTech, © SBCTC, CC BY 4.0
  22. Figure 6.22: A Set of Two Hole Pins by David Ridge, for WA Open ProfTech, © SBCTC, CC BY 4.0
  23. Figure 6.23: Protractor by David Ridge, for WA Open ProfTech, © SBCTC, CC BY 4.0
  24. Figure 6.24: Bevel gauge by Luke Milburn is released under CC BY 2.0
  25. Figure 6.25: Silver Pencil by David Ridge, for WA Open ProfTech, © SBCTC, CC BY 4.0
  26. Figure 6.26: Soapstone by David Ridge, for WA Open ProfTech, © SBCTC, CC BY 4.0
  27. Figure 6.27: Paint Pen by David Ridge, for WA Open ProfTech, © SBCTC, CC BY 4.0
  28. Figure 6.28: Metal Scribe by David Ridge, for WA Open ProfTech, © SBCTC, CC BY 4.0
  29. Figure 6.29: Grabatu tresnak puntzoia 2 by Txikillana is released under CC BY-SA 4.0
  30. Figure 6.30: C-Clamp by David Ridge, for WA Open ProfTech, © SBCTC, CC BY 4.0
  31. Figure 6.31: #11 Locking Clamp by David Ridge, for WA Open ProfTech, © SBCTC, CC BY 4.0
  32. Figure 6.32: Bar Clamp by David Ridge, for WA Open ProfTech, © SBCTC, CC BY 4.0
  33. Figure 6.33: Welding Magnets by David Ridge, for WA Open ProfTech, © SBCTC, CC BY 4.0
  34. Figure 6.34: Dog and Wedge by David Ridge, for WA Open ProfTech, © SBCTC, CC BY 4.0
  35. Figure 6.35: Using a Dog and Wedge by David Ridge, for WA Open ProfTech, © SBCTC, CC BY 4.0
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Introduction to Welding Copyright © by David Ridge is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License, except where otherwise noted.