Culture through Exotic Foods in Việt Nam Vs. Mexico
Melyna Nguyen
Culture is shallow and can be made overnight. This is a common misconception made by people who have obscured the boundaries between cultural associations. With those who claim acculturation, but their change falters to culture appropriation. There exists a cultural competence that needs to be addressed to overcome this issue because acknowledging your own culture and people’s culture, you can extend your empathy and connection to each other. This can be mediated by the people’s exotic food culture peculiarly because of the regional, historical, and palate similarities and differences. An exotic food juxtaposition can be demonstrated with Vietnamese and Mexican demographics, further supported by my story with Vietnamese culture.
The cultural shared consciousness happens directly in my household and became predominant in my early life and family. Specifically, the common presence of exotic foods that are vastly unique to Asian culture. In the streets of Việt Nam and in my own household, experiencing exotic foods is a very common practice. Foods such the balut dish and fermented pork meat are brought up because preparation and its category is adventurous and foreign. Particularly, fermented pork meat called Nem Chua—which contains different versions and names based on the local region—consists of minced pork, cooking pork skin, and black peppercorn. Additionally, there are garlic and Thai chilis that come with this delicacy and is wrapped in banana leaves for the sweetness and herbal taste. It’s way of preparation is generational and “…it became more widely known in 1975 when a local woman, Tu Man, made Nem Chua for visitors” (Dorsey). The variation that Tu Man made was called “nem Lai Vung,” regional to the area, and was made with rice as well. This fermentation process has been kept for generations, but in modern society the safety issues and dangers to pathogenic bacteria rendered this tradition to reach commercial means. By being sold as a curing powder mix instead which contains glucono delta-lactone ingredient that gives the curing process of the meat the distinct texture, sweetness, and lowering of the pH—inhibits bacterial growth (Dorsey). Nem Chua presents itself in many different settings as well, especially during Tet Nguyen Dan, the Vietnamese Lunar New Year, due to its traditional and popular background. Many families eat this delightful dish as a snack or as street food. But most importantly, “Nem Chua possesses the local character of each region of Việt Nam Tết Nguyên Đán” (Tran), and by expressing the different regions it became a show to Vietnamese culture itself and its balanced palette. This includes local ingredients such as black peppercorns grown to the ingredients in the sauces used. In the case of Nem Chua in my own household, its connection to my childhood is significant to me. Growing up eating this, the unique characteristics such as its chewy texture and sweet-sour taste made me acknowledge the link to my own heritage. This is further emphasized by my current research as I learned that there can be individualistic traditional or generational recipes to this dish based on the region. Though Nem Chua may seem ‘strange’ in another person’s view because of the raw fermentation process used, this dish is an essential part of Vietnamese culture.
The dissimilarity between the food culture of Vietnamese people and Mexicans varies, especially in the topic of exotic foods. Though Vietnamese culture has its fair share in insect delicacy with staple foods like con nhộng made of silkworms, Mexican gastronomy features this resemblance with a dish called Escamoles made of ant pupae and larvae. They are known as the ‘caviar of the desert’ and insects because of their delectable and rich flavor with hints of nutty colors and is typically served with onion, butter, and epazote. It’s also comparable to fish caviar due to its cost and harvesting practice. But even more so because of its harsh harvesting attribute. They are “harvested in Hidalgo state—near Mexico City—from giant black ant colonies that live along the root systems of the maguey (agave) plant” (Kessler) which are located usually in the high plains and in caves. With its high demand and overexploitation of the habitat sites, it truly is the caviar to Mexican cuisine. This seasonal delicacy is part of the many foods that have been making its revival and with its vast history with ancient Aztecs who “…had some other unusual customs…Regional Mexican specialties like… escamoles (ant eggs) are the most popular” (Rowley). The historical origins of Escamoles reached the 13th century where it was enjoyed by the Aztecs and then endured for generations to modern day civilization. Escamoles is being featured in recent dishes with more complex approach like filling for tacos or with certain ingredients. With this show of extensive record, it has embedded into Mexican culture itself as a customary dish “symbolizing abundance and prosperity” (Oliver). The sustainability and perseverance left an impression on me out of all the exotic dishes from the Mexican gastronomy. Especially its harvesting methods which require comprehensive knowledge on ant nesting routine and care, and the safety procedures when collecting these ant eggs. It’s foreign and unconventional trait, representing their catalog of exotic foods, aligns with Việt Nam’s own adventurous food range. Composing a way for me to also incorporate in that palette span.
Though Mexico and Việt Nam are divided physically by the Pacific Ocean, they are near in distance and food culture. Gastronomy is mediated by safety concerns, consumeristic appearance and taste, processing, and cultural habit. By examining closer, Vietnamese and Mexican exotic foods, institutionalized by historical adversities, emerges itself to similar and different ways by this mediation. There is controversy from both ends in safety where “there is potential for trichinosis” (Oliver) for Nem Chua while for Escamoles this delicacy has the risk of potential pathogens, contamination, and where it’s sourced due to the scarceness. As preparation for Nem Chua is essential to minimize safety risk, preparation for Escamoles is also fundamental. Their means of handling uses caution and meticulous examination, including a correct fermentation process for pork in Nem Chua. But for Escamoles, the harvesting and collection of ant eggs or larvae using protective gear from furious ants (Rowley). In contradiction to their resemblance, there lies a difference in their taste and texture. For Nem Chua, people enjoy the sour and sweet taste with a chewy texture, but for Escamoles its taste is nutty and rich with a creamy texture (Kessler). The utmost incentive to these cultures’ preferences is around perseverance and cultural heritage where generational recipes are passed down and practiced in restaurants and homes. Where these dishes became a demonstration of history dating back to the Aztecs or during the 1900s. Despite their differences and similarities, these distinct cultures can explore their interrelations and consolidate for their uniqueness.
Reaching cultural competence is knowing a culture’s crucial principles and its comparison to other cultures through uniqueness and resemblance. Exotic foods in my Vietnamese culture have been known for its adventurous and bizarre taste and category, but this isn’t limited to Việt Nam but in Mexico as well. Việt Nam that has the delicacy Nem Chua and Mexico with Escamoles are prime examples and can be compared to its historical significance, preparation, sensation, and safety. There is potential abundance in knowledge just from knowing about what these foods are and what they represent. But firstly, one must eliminate societal bias and unwarranted repulsion to accomplish this open mindset for knowledge.
Works Cited
Dorsey, Jenny. (2023, May 17). “Nem Chua (Vietnamese Cured Pork With Garlic and Chiles) Recipe”. Serious Eats.
Kessler, J. (2005, May 05). Who knew an army of ants could lay such creamy goodness on my tongue?: [home edition]. The Atlanta Journal – Constitution. Retrieved from http://168.156.198.98:2048/login?url=https://www.proquest.com/newspapers/who-knew- army-ants-could-lay-such-creamy-goodness/docview/337230921/se-2
Oliver, William. (2023, Nov 7). “The Ultimate Guide to Escamoles in Mexico: A Unique Culinary Experience.” Food Journeyist.
Rowley, S. H. (1989, Jun 21). A menu just crawling with goodies: [NORTH SPORTS FINAL, C edition]. Chicago Tribune (Pre-1997 Fulltext). Retrieved from
http://168.156.198.98:2048/login?url=https://www.proquest.com/newspapers/menu-just- crawling-with-goodies/docview/282551250/se-2
Tran, Rachel. (2020, January 2). “Nem Chua – Vietnamese Fermented Pork Roll”. Vietnam Discovery.